Collar, cuff, and the like



11, 1940. wRuBiNsTEm 2,204,152

comm, CUFF, AND THE LIKE Filed June 27, 1938 2 Sheet s-She et 1 IN VEN TOR.

WILTON RUB/NSTE/N' 1% V aw Q HIS ATTORNEYS.

June 11, 1940. w. RUBLINSTEIN COLLAR, CUFF, AND THE LIKE Filed Jun 27, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

WILTON RUB/NSTE/N HIS ATTORNEYS.

Patented June 11, 1940 UNITED STATES PATEN orrlcs half to said Rubinstein as trustee, Greensfelder, as cotrustee and Edward Application June 27, 1938, Serial No. 215,960 4 Claims. (Cl. 2-131 This invention relates to collars, cuffs, and the like, and has special reference to turned down collars and foldabl cuffs including sections of soft lining material interposed between the exposed and infold plies andassociated with other parts of the article to form definite fold lines.

In turned down collars and foldable cuil's, the lining sections and the band and cape of the collar and in the superposed portions of the cuff when made of a soft material according to this invention, and having no fusing or thermoplastic properties, and having their adjacent edges spaced apart to provide the fold line, as herein disclosed, must be cut on the bias in order to prevent raveling of the edges thereof along the fold line. This is because, if the lining sections of soft material are cut straight, or substantially straight, along threads thereof, said sections ravel at their inner margins, which border on the area comprising the fold line.

Heretofore, it has been the practice in forming a shirt collar to, cut the lining sections along approximately straight lines across, the fabric in one direction or the other. When collar linings of soft material, or of the material known as permanent finish, 'are out either approximately straight longitudinally or approximately straight across, the cut edges which run approximately parallel to the threads of the fabric have a decided tendency to ravel. In collars or cuffs in which the edges of the lining sections are separated by an intervening fold line space, the agitation of laundering or washing aggravates the-articles to such a degree that stitching running closely parallel to these edges will not hold the edges securely because the raveling will cause the threads to extend into the fold line space and impair its emciency, and the lining edges will become loose and free from the stitches and ruin the article. This is true of lining sections composed of soft material having no fusing or thermoplastic properties, and is also true of that material finishedin a special manner and known to the trade as permanent finish, but is not true of soft and permanent finish materials that are cut on a bias so that the. threads thereof extend .diagonally across the threads of the inner and.

r and have their adjacent edges separated by an intervening fold line space, and are properly sewed to the infold or concealed ply, and particul'arly in connection with 'a bias fold line strip, all of these dimculties encountered with. lining sections cut on the straight-or cross of fabrics, .are avoided; and that articles made with such sectional lining sections cut .on the bias have been laundered or'washed continuously for many hours with no indication of ravel at their spaced out edges. This isbecause, when these lining sections are out on the bias, the threads at the spaced marginal edges are not parallel with such, edges; and, therefore, even when subjected to lateral stress, these out edges along the fold line will not ravel. To prevent this raveling, it would not be practicable to hem or fold these spaced edges along the fold line because, in additionto other objections, that would increase the thickness and bulkiness of the seams at the sides of the fold line and would impair the flexibility thereof. Cutting the lining sections on the bias so that the bias cut edges are separated by the fold line space solves this problem completely because these bias cut edges, without hemming or binding, hold the stitches without raveling, thus assuring a permanently smooth and uniform surface throughout the entire fold line.

In order to sew' a collar whose exposed and infold plies are cut on the straight or cross and whose lining sections are cut on the bias, it is preferable that the lining sections be finished in a special manner, known to the trade as permanent finis because lining sections so finished -may, when out on the bias, be sewed with other parts cut on the straight or cross, and these bias cut lining sections will not stretch or. become /di'storted in "the sewing operations to a greater degree than the infold and exposed plies that are cut straight or cross, to which they are sewed. But, if a lining section made of material other than permanent finish be used, it will stretch in the sewing to such an extent that it will be impossible to make a satisfactory collar with lining sections having their adjacent edges spaced to provide the fold line.

However, after a collar or cuff is made with the bias cut lining sections confined between the infold and exposed-plies thereof, it cannot stretch beyond the factor of stretch of the collar fabric plies themselves.

Forming the lining sections on the bias and assembling them in the fashion herein disclosed makes the article substantially distortion-proof, because it cannot be pulled out of shape by the stresses of ordinary laundry operations. In the construction herein disclosed, the lining sections cut on the bias and confined between the exposed and infold plies, straight or cross, makes it substantiallyiimpossible to pull the article out of shape as a result of. ordinary strains to which the article is subjected in wearing or laundering, because woven textile fabrics stretch only when pulled biaswise; and pulling the article biaswise insofar as the exposed and infold plies are concerned would be straightwise with respect to the The advantages resulting from this improvedconstruction will become apparent from the following description, reference being made to the annexed drawings, in which- Fig. 1 is a plan view of one of the plies of the collar.

Fig. 2 is an inside plan view of the infold ply of the collar after the bias strip crossing the fold line has been attached thereto by two lines of stitches.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the infold ply after the bias linefold strip has been attached thereto and after the lining section of the collar band, which has its threads extending on the bias with respect to the threads of the infold ply, has been attached thereto.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the collar turned inside-out and showing the bias lining section attached'to the inside of the cape portion of the exposed ply.

Fig. 5 is a view of the collar turned to expose the outer surface of the infold ply and showing the first line of stitches attaching the inner marginal edge of the lining section of the band to the infold 'iply and the bias fold line strip.

Fig. 6 isan outside plan view of a collar made in accordance with this invention, a portion of the exposed ply being removed to illustrate the manner in which the lining sections are spaced to form the fold line and are attached to the infold ply and the fold line strip of the collar.

Fig. 7 is an inside plan view of the finished collar,

Fig. 8 is an outside plan view of the finished collar before the collar has been folded.

Fig. 9 is an outside plan view of the collar after the collar has been folded and then extended fiatwise along the fold line, which fiatwise extension forms the visible upstanding fold line of the collar.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged diagrammaticsectional view on the line ill-ill of Fig. 8.

Fig. 11 is. a broken plan view of a foldable cuff made in accordance with the invention.

A collar made in accordance with this invention includes an infold ply A and an exposed ply B, which are duplicates. The infold ply A is formed with a cape portion l and a band portion 2, and the exposed ply includes a cape portion 3 and a band portion 4, matching the cape and band portions of the infold ply. A strip of fabric 5 is then attached to the concealed side of the infold ply by two spaced lines of stitches -6 and l. The strip 5 is composed. of fabric impregnated with a chemical, as in permanent finish organdy, so that it will not become flimsy as a result of repeated laundering operations; and it is made of threads of such fineness that the fabric is so transparent thatv itwill not form a shadow in that portion of the collar band into which it extends. The strip is cut on a bias so that all of the threads 8 of which the strip is woven extend diagonally across the strip. The line of stitches 6 extend from end to.end of the ply A and of the strip 5, and said strip has elongated portions 9 extending to the ends of the band portion 2 of the infold ply'of the collar. This strip extends along and spans the fold line of the "collar, which curves from the corner 10 to the corner ll along the median line of the strip, so that the margins of said strip extend into the cape and band portions of the collar, respectively.

The lining sections of the present invention. are composed of soft lining material finished in a special manner and known as permanent finish, and essentially are cut on the bias, so that the lining section I2 of the band has its threads l3 extending diagonally across the threads J4 .of the and the infold ply A by the longitudinal row of stitches l5 passing also through the strip 5 between and parallel with the lines of stitches 6 3 and l (Figs. 7 and 10). p

The lining section 66 of the cape is also cut on a bias so that its threads l'l extend diagonally with respect to the threads i8 of the cape. Said cape lining section it is attached to the infold and exposed plies of the collar along the end and lower margins of said plies by a row of stitches l9, and the adjacent marginal edges of said lining sections are separated by an intervening space to provide a space for the fold line of the collar, as disclosed in my copending applications, Serial No. 200,636, filed April 7, 1938,and Serial No. 213,347, filed June 13, 1938, now Patent Nos. 2,152,093 and 2,152,094, respectively.

By forming these lining sections of permanent finish material, the lines of stitches 20 and 2|, which run between the lines of stitches 6 and I, prevent raveling of the threads along the cut -edges of the lining sections, which'I have found to be a serious problem in making collars including lining sections of soft material, even of permanent finish material. Heretofore, it has been considered impracticable to cut or form lining sections of soft material because, in the making 'of the collar the material stretches or expands;

and it has been considered entirely impracticable, and has never been deemed possible, to cut lining sections on the bias, and certainly not in forming collars with the lining sections separated by a longitudinal intervening space and attached to the infold ply by lines of stitches so as to provide a defined fold line. These lines of stitches iii, 20 and 2i, attaching the margins of the lin ing sections l2 and it to the strip 5 and the infold ply A, cooperate with the strip 5 to provide the definite fold line 22 running from end to end of the collar between the comers i0 and II. A lineof stitches 23 is then formed along the length of the collar between the lines of stitches the lines of stitches i5 and 23, all of which is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 10 of the drawings. a i 4 A foldable cufi is illustrated generally in Fig. 11 of the drawings, having a strip running the length of the cufi and attached to the concealed portion 25 by lines of stitches 26 and 21, respectively. The lining sections 28 and 29 are interposed between'the infold and exposed plies of the cufl. and have their margins overlapping the strip 5' and attached thereto and to the infold ply of the cuff by lines of stitches 30 and 3|, so that an intervening space or fold line 32 for the cuff is provided. The exposed ply covers and conceals the lining sections 28 and 29, the strip 5', and the lines of stitches 30 and 3|. The stitches l0 and 3| cooperate with the diagonally cut lining sections 28 and 29, the threads of which run diagonally with respect to the threads of the iniold and exposed plies of the cuff, so that said lining sections will not ravel along the lines of stitches 30 and 3|. These linings sections are made of permanent finish material andare cut onthe bias in order to attain the objects of the invention stated in the forepart of this specification.

From the foregoing, it should be apparent that my invention solves an existing problem" in the manufacture of soft collars without the use of thermoplastic material, utilizing permanent finish material for the lining sections which must essentially be cut on the bias, heretofore unknown in this' art, and even considered impracticable.

I claim:

'1 A garment collar comprising a part adapted to be folded and creased along an intermediate longitudinal line to provide an inner section and an outer section, said part being made up of a top ply and an under ply superimposed one on the other, and a pair of interliningpieces in said part, one in said outer section and the other in said inner section between the top ply and the under ply thereof,"said interlining pieces in the flat or extended position of said part having their adjacent longitudinal edges close. together and unattached directly to each other, and one of said edgesbeing secured to said under ply only of said two plies and unattached to said top ply of said part.

2. A garment collar comprising a part adapted to be folded and creased along an intermediate longitudinal line to provide an inner section and an outer section, said part being made up of a top ply and an under ply superimposed one on the other, and a pair of interlining pieces in said part, one in said outer section and the other in said inner section between the top-ply and the under ply thereof, said interlining pieces in the fiatposition of said part having their adjacent I edges close together, and longitudinal rows of stitches attaching said edges to said part, one of said edges having stitched attachment to said under ply only of said two plies. I

3. A garment collar comprising a part adapted to,be folded'and creased along an intermediate longitudinal line to provide an inner section and an outer. section, said part being made up of a top ply and an under ply superimposed one on the other, and a pair of interlining pieces in said part, one in said outer section and the other in-r said inner section between the top ply and the under ply thereof, said interlining pieces in the flat or extended position of said part having their adjacent longitudinal edges close together and unattached directly to each other, and said edge of said interlining piece in said outer section being secured to said under ply only of said two plies.

4. A garment collar comprising a part adapted to be folded and creased along an intermediate longitudinal line to provide an inner section and an outer section, said part being made up of a top ply and an under ply superimposed one on the other, and a pair of interlining pieces in said part, one in said outer section and the other in said inner section between the top ply and the under ply thereof, said interlining pieces in the flat position of said part having their adjacent edges close together, and longitudinal rows of stitches attaching said edges to said part, said WIL'I'QN RUBINBTEIN. 

